If you've ever been to Woodstock, you know that it possesses a unique quality...sort of a combination between Norman Rockwell, Martha Stewart, and June Cleaver. Many of the town's restaurants are no exception. Most were slow to adapt to  the new trends in cooking that evolved over the past decade or so, and even if the kitchens have changed the atmosphere in the dining rooms still lags  behind.

Typical  of this is the Prince and the Pauper, located right in the heart of downtown Woodstock. This restaurant really exemplifies the Woodstock experience; which, depending on your perspective, can be either a good thing or a bad thing.

Here are the pluses: the food is excellent, boasting traditional dishes with a  twist like sliced duck breast in a Grand Marnier sauce; the service is prompt  and attentive; the prices are on the high side but certainly not unreasonable;  and the portions are ample. In other words, all the characteristics one would  expect of a fine dining experience.

On the negative side, and this may be more of a complaint about the town in general  rather than the establishment specifically, I always feel as though I'm eating in someone's grandmother's dining room (although truth be told, in my grandmother's dining room you're more likely to find brisket or overcooked chicken than you are to find a tender veal chop).

The  atmosphere has a very formal feel, and that's only augmented by the fact that the age of the average patron seems to be far higher than my own.

But  then again, I'm living the Vermont experience every day, I don't need more of it when I go out to dinner. While the dining room does not suit my tastes, there are, however, two other aspects worth mentioning: the bar and the bistro menu.

The  bar is a wonderful blend of dark wood, comfortable chairs, and intimate tables, the perfect place to relax with a drink on those rare occasions when your  table is delayed. And the bistro menu? It may be one of Woodstock's best kept  secrets. The prices are lower and the food is outstanding, particularly the pizzas, all of which are around $10. In fact, I have friends who regularly drive from Hanover N.H. (past a handful of lesser pizza places) to eat here.

If you're looking for  a dining experience that typifies Woodstock in every way--the somewhat formal  atmosphere, the outstanding quality, the service--look no further. If you've been in Vermont for several days and the quaintness is starting to get under  your skin, keep looking.

Don Phillips

Visit the Prince and Pauper website

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Scenes of Vermont